Why Bush Vines Produce Some of the World's Finest Wines

When you think of vineyards, you probably picture neat rows of vines trained upward on poles and wires. Yet, some of the most coveted wines come from what resemble wild bunches of grapes, "bush vines." These vines can resemble an untamed and unkempt meadow more than a well-tended vineyard. But this isn't a sign of negligence on the part of the winemaker.

Image: Bush vines on the left, normal vines on the right. AI-generated, so they look a bit uniform, but it's the idea that counts.

What are "Bush Vines" ?

What are bush vines , or " bosstokkies " as they also call them in South Africa? We don't have a good word for it ourselves, by the way; "bushvines" doesn't really ring a bell, so I'll stick with English. But, simply put, they are vines that grow like bushes, not managed by any kind of training system. They develop thick, twisting trunks that spread their arms freely, resulting in a unique canopy that naturally protects the grapes.

Many wines from bush vines exhibit pronounced concentration and character, which in turn is related to the way the vines are grown. Bush vines grow low to the ground, without support from guides or wires, often with a short trunk and multiple side branches: traditionally known as the "gobelet" system.*

*Source: Wine Scholar Guild, Vine School: Part 1 – Common Vine-Training Systems: https://www.winescholarguild.com/blog/viticulture-insights/vine-school-part-1-common-vine-training-systems

Why Bush Vines Can Be So Useful in Wine Production

These vines have deep root systems, sometimes reaching depths of 15 to 20 meters. This makes them ideal for dry climates. Their roots reach water and minerals inaccessible to shallow-trained vines. When such a vine struggles to grow, it ultimately adds complexity and often intensity to the wines made from them. Moreover, the natural canopy provides perfect ripening conditions, providing much-needed shade for the grapes during intense heat while still allowing morning sunlight to enter.

Image: This is what we expect vineyards to look like: perfect rows of neat, upright vines. This is from a visit to Napa Valley, by the way.

That 'stress' on the grapes

Interestingly, vines thrive under stress, which improves grape quality. Limited access to water forces vines to invest energy in fruit, not leaves, resulting in concentrated, well-ripening wines. Older vines with deeper roots often produce less, but better, fruit. Young vines, on the other hand, produce the opposite. That's why pre-phylloxera vineyards are such a special thing among wine enthusiasts. More on that in another article, but briefly. Over a century ago, a disease wreaked havoc on vines in Europe. Many vines were destroyed. The solution was grafting onto American roots. Vines saved. The disease: phylloxera. So, pre-phylloxera vines are still on roots from before the disease and are therefore, by definition, very old.

Bush Vine vineyards come with costs

Those vineyards are quite labor-intensive. While planting and maintaining the grapes is less work, pruning and harvesting all have to be done by hand, which is quite fiddly. This naturally leads to higher prices. Nevertheless, the quality often surpasses regular wines thanks to lower yields and the plant's focused energy on growing the grapes. So there's definitely an advantage.

It can still be affordable

For quality without exorbitant costs, look to South Africa's Swartland or old vineyards in Spain. A producer like Stellenrust, for example, offers one of the top-rated Chenin Blancs from bush vines for less than €40.

Nice Roel, but what are we talking about in terms of taste?

Hard to say. You were hoping for more, I understand. What you're looking for is the result of the vine having to work harder to grow. That often translates into a more intense flavor. Intense doesn't necessarily mean heavier here. You simply have to think of it as this. If you ever make a sauce or soup, you'll definitely encounter a moment where you think: "This lacks flavor." There are two things you can do:

1. Add salt, Maggi, and stock cube.
2. Thicken. Less moisture = more flavor.

That's what you mean by that intensity. But of course, without the wine becoming physically thicker and more syrupy.

Tradition yet rewarding innovation

Bush vines continue to shape the narrative of artisanal winemaking. They bridge the gap between tradition and the modern wine world, offering a glimpse into a viticultural technique that prioritizes quality over quantity. They also help us continue to explore how traditional techniques can support sustainable viticulture.